Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
